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How to Use Gear Selector on 2016 Taurus UPDATED

How to Use Gear Selector on 2016 Taurus

THE WHY

Having returned dwelling house for Christmas I borrowed my Dad's Ford Transit Connect van for a small errand I had to run. I'd stopped in the queue for some traffic lights and dropped it into neutral as normal whilst I waited for the lights to go green. When they somewhen did, I shifted into first (the gear stick felt slightly odd, kind of loose) and equally I went to pull away there was no bulldoze engagement, I tried to reselect the gear again and the aforementioned thing happened - nothing. I even tried second, third, along, fifth and reverse, all had nix. Fortunately a driver behind me helped me push the van to the side of the road and I called the AA for roadside assistance. Nigh 30 minutes afterwards the bright xanthous recovery vehicle showed up and later on fifteen minutes inspecting the cause the AA mechanic ended that something in the transmission had gone wrong which meant a tow dorsum to the destination of my choice. Being Christmas and with no local mechanics at work until after the New year's day the merely identify we could take it was dwelling. The AA guy mentioned that Ford Transits are quite susceptible to bug with the gear selector mechanism and the 2 cables that connect information technology to the gear stick. So once we had it home I did a fleck of inquiry on the cyberspace to run across if information technology was a common problem, turns out information technology is, but as is often the case in that location isn't a good tutorial out there to follow. So with the help of this mail service on the Ford Transit forum I decided to investigate for myself.

THE TASK

You volition need the following:

10mm socket
13mm socket
15mm deep socket
19mm socket
Extension bars for socket set up
Universal socket adapter
Trolley jack
Torch/flashlight
Small-scale wire brush (optional)
Bear upon wrench (makes life a lot easier)
Penetrating oil (optional)
Small oestrus gun/blow torch (optional)
Flat bladed screwdriver
Cantankerous caput screwdriver
Telescopic magnetic pickup tool

THE HOW TO

(Amateur mechanic chore fourth dimension approx 2-3 hours)

Before I started taking the vehicle apart I took some time to ostend that information technology was indeed a problem with the transmission selector machinery and non the two flexi-cables that transfer the movements of the gear stick in the cabin to the gear selector in the engine bay. This is relatively easy to practise just you lot need someone else to sit in the cab and motion the gear stick forwards/backwards and then side-to-side whilst you peer down into the right-hand side of the engine compartment with a good flashlight (You should be looking in the area marked by the cherry circle in the 1st image further down this post). If the cables are okay you lot should see movement here above the transmission when the gear stick is moved side-to-side then separately forwards/backwards. If either of these ii operations doesn't make anything motion and so you accept a problem with either/both of the cables or the gear stick itself. You can check the cables at the gear stick end by just pulling upward the safe gator and yous will run into they are attached to the stick.

In the case of my Dad'southward van we had movement in the engine bay when the gear stick was moved in both directions and so this meant the cables were okay and that the trouble was somewhere deeper in the transmission and more specifically the selector machinery.

To get things nether-way you first need to remove the air box (side by side to the battery) in the top-right corner of the engine bay, disengage the 4 screws on each corner of the box and cut the big cable tie that secures the box to the air intake tube. Yous should then be able to wiggle the tiptop half of the box free (blue arrow shows superlative half of airbox sitting on engine later removal) and expose the air filter and lower section of the air-box (this has been removed from the picture but it sits in the area where the orange circle is). Put the air filter somewhere make clean and remove the the lower department of air-box which is just pressed into place - then a good tug and wiggle will remove it.

At present you should then come across the right hand engine mount; the heart nut secures the mount to the transmission and the iv surrounding nuts secure the mount to the frame of the vehicle (marked past the orange circle below).

Next you need to identify a trolley jack underneath the transmission, this is to back up the weight of the transmission and engine when you come to remove the correct-hand engine mount.

Important: Call up yous are NOT jacking up the car, you are just using the jack to support the weight of the transmission.

Earlier you remove the engine mount it'due south a expert idea to disconnect the positive and negative wires from the bombardment, undo the commodities from the battery clamp forth the front end border of the bombardment. Then lift and remove the bombardment completely free from the vehicle to expose the battery tray below. Not simply is this necessary but it will give y'all more space to piece of work effectively.

With the transmission supported, yous can now release and remove the large central nut in the centre of engine mount. This detaches detaches the transmission from the mountain. You may discover the van rise slightly equally the weight is released due to the van's pause. Recoup this by jacking up the gearbox slightly more.

Adjacent you need to remove the engine mountain itself, which is secured by iv nuts, ane of each corner of the mount. For us, this was the hardest office of the whole job as the nuts were seized (probably because any water that gets within the engine bay only sits here as at that place is nowhere for it to drain). Even wire brushing the threads, using penetrating oil, an affect wrench and heat nosotros but managed to remove three of them, the fourth one in the top right corner had to be drilled and cutting with a nut-cracker to remove information technology - but we did it. Once the nuts are removed the engine mount can exist pulled out, it may take a bit of effort depending if information technology rusted to the black tray below. We had to tap ours with a hammer to initially interruption the rust seal.

Afterward this, undo the iii bolts that secure the plastic battery tray to the vehicle (shown by the blue arrows below).

Before y'all tin remove the plastic tray yous will probably notice that all the wires and hoses that environment it are clipped to it. Call up there were about hlaf-a-dozen clips to printing/lever out with the blade of a screwdriver before the tray would come up completely gratis.

With the battery tray removed it's time to disengage the ii 10mm bolts (see blue arrows in the picture below) that secure the air-box tray to the vehicle. With these removed you can at present remove the air-box tray.

Earlier we tin truly become the selector mechanism we need to remove the engine mountain back up bracket (shown inside the cherry circle below) that is attached by 3 big bolts (see blue arrows beneath) to the transmission itself. Some extension bars, universal socket adapter and the touch wrench fabricated light piece of work of these. Yous can at present remove the engine mount support bracket and you should have an nearly articulate view of the top of the transmission and the ends of the gear selector cables where they adhere by ball-articulation to the selector mechanism and the selector mechanism itself.

Disconnect the cables (see red circles below) from the selector mechanism by pressing the blackness plastic push button on (centre top) of the ball-joint on each.

Now depending how dirty information technology is effectually the selector mechanism y'all might desire to give it a clean down before you remove it. This volition avoid any dust and general crap falling into the workings of transmission when you remove the selector.

To remove the selector mechanism at that place are vi x 10mm bolts that surround it (shown by the blue arrows below). Undo each of these, the one on the far right is longer than rest then pay attention where it goes when information technology comes to put things back together. Also make certain you disconnect the electrical sensor (see red arrow below) that attaches to the housing too.

With the bolts removed you tin can now carefully pull the whole selector mechanism up and gratuitous from the transmission and manoeuvre information technology out of the engine compartment. Picture below shows the hole where the selector mechanism used to be.

At this signal information technology's a skillful thought to dip a scope magnetic pen into the manual hole and deep into the oil as far down equally it will go. This is simply a precautionary measure out to pick upwards any bits of metal that may have broken off from the selector mechanism. Fortunately in our case nosotros had a clean pause so no fragments of metal were constitute.

Here is the selector machinery assembly completely removed from the car.

Next, accept a look at the main shaft that runs through the selector mechanism. The pin that Ford use is chosen a 'Roll Pivot' (see case picture below), they practise non sell this function on its ain, instead they prefer you to buy the whole selector machinery which is totally unnecessary and costly at around £250 for the whole unit you see in the in a higher place picture.

If you tin see a hole on the shaft (see the small red circumvolve below) then the pin has snapped. The pin is used to attach the shaft to the selector machinery (run across blue arrow). If you're lucky like me all iii pieces of the pivot volition notwithstanding be stuck in the holes of the shaft and selector mechanism. Disassemble the selector mechanism by pulling the shaft all the way out. You lot then just demand to tap the remnants of the pin out with a similar diameter bolt/screwdriver and hammer. This is expert time to requite all the components of the selector mechanism a practiced clean ready for reassembly.

With the pin removed, reassemble the shaft into the selector machinery components and select a bolt that has a snug fit for the hole. You may need to cut the bolt length downwardly then that it doesn't interfere with the motion of the mechanism. Utilize a nyloc nut on the end of the bolt. You should end up with something like the moving picture below. Commodities inserted from the green arrow side and blue arrow shows the nyloc nut and margin of acceptable thread left.

All that is left to exercise is put the selector into neutral and reverse the whole process to put the car dorsum together.

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